Arctic Cat 9000/1100T Super Chute Turbo

Remove hood & side panels

Remove the plastic turbo cover on the left side of the sled (it is the plastic cover that covers the intake elbow)

Label all of the vacuum hoses connected with the turbo, intercooler and boost control

Loosen clamp securing the intake elbow.

Loosen clamp securing the rubber boot to the turbo inlet

Loosen intercooler boost hose clamps (upper and lower) and disconnect hoses from intercooler end tanks.

Disconnect the 2 smaller hoses from the top of the intercooler end tank

Remove rearward intercooler brackets

Remove intercooler (do not remove front intercooler brackets – intercooler can be removed with these brackets attached)

Place a catch pan under the snowmobile for this next step - Remove the rubber water line that goes from the tank to the top of the turbo.

Remove the 5 screws that hold on the lower heat shield

Remove the 3 bolts that hold in the cross brace that holds the upper heat shield on. You will need to drill out the two rivets on the main spar that hold the heat shield to the main spar. You will also need to drill out the rivets that hold the very top heat shield which wraps around the main spar

Remove the cross brace

Remove the 10 mm bolt on the bottom of the turbo that holds the heat shield to the turbo.

Remove the muffler

Spray a good penetrating oil on ALL of the exhaust nuts – header pipe to engine, header pipe to turbo, down pipe, and turbo support brackets. Let it sit for an hour.

Remove the turbo downpipe nuts and washers (outlet pipe that connects to the turbo) The upper back one can be accessed from the right side of the sled with some ratchet extensions and a universal joint. Remember how these bolts and retainers are stacked. Save all items as you will reuse them

Remove the turbo support bracket – the one behind the steering column is very difficult to remove. Although we do not recommend this, this job is made far easier by removing the steering column. If you have the vertical steering modification from Arctic Cat, you can use their instructions for the removal and reinstallation of the column.

Remove the nuts and washers holding the header pipe on

Using a 14 MM socket, remove the oil line from the top of the turbo. Save the bolt and two washers and be careful not to damage them!

Remove the nuts and washers holding the turbo to the header

Looking at the right side of the turbo (clutch side of the engine), you will see the turbo oil drain line – it is a rubber hose coming from the bottom of the engine. Using a long needle nose pliers, slide the hose clamp down, then using a screw driver, push the rubber oil drain line off of the turbo oil drain line.

Using a long needle nose pliers and coming from the clutch side, slide the hose clamp that holds the bottom water line on the turbo so you can remove the line from the turbo.

Remove the header and turbo

REMOVE THE HARD WATER LINES AND OIL DRAIN LINE FROM THE TURBO – SAVE THE OIL DRAIN LINE AS YOU WILL REUSE IT ON THE SUPER CHUTE TURBO THE WASTEGATE ACTUATOR AND ALL ITEMS ASSOCIATED WITH THE WASTEGATE MUST BE INCLUDED WHEN YOU SEND YOUR TURBO TO US AS A CORE

WITH TAPE AND A MAGIC MARKER, PLEASE WRITE YOUR NAME ON THE TURBO AND ECU. ALSO, PLEASE WRITE INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING IN THE BOX-

• Name:
• Address:
• Phone #
• Email address:
• Kit ordered:
• Fuel Requirement: (91,93 or 100 octane)
• Year, Make and Model of sled:
• Sled Modifications:
• Any previous ECU modifications:

It is best to put a clean paper towel into the intake side and intake outlet side of the turbo to prevent debris from entering the turbo inlet and outlet – make sure you remove them before final hose connections are made. Do NOT adjust the waste gate – it has been set by us and should not be changed

Oil drain line – you will reuse the drain line that came off the stock turbo. It will need to be modified to work with the Super Chute turbo. Using the supplied new oil drain gasket as a template, line up the drain hole in the gasket with the factory drain hole. The bolt holes in the factory drain line will not line up completely with the gasket. Use a magic market to draw on the bottom of the factory drain line flange – you will need to elongate the holes in the flange so the drain line will bolt up to the Super Chute turbo.

Install the supplied oil drain gasket under the modified factory oil drain line short 20mm x 8mm bolts Tighten to 10 ft lbs.

Install the EVO supplied oil restrictor/adaptor into the threaded hole on the top of the turbo. The domed side of the fitting faces up.

Remove the factory U shaped water line from behind the oil filter and replace with the EVO supplied molded hose. Install end of the supplied molded hose so that the curve of the supplied molded hose matches the curve of the factory U shaped hose. The hose may be difficult to slide over the barb - if so, spray brake cleaner into the end of the hose to make it slide onto the barb easier. Reuse factory constant tension clamp from the original factory hose to secure the hose onto the barb.

Remove the factory hard oil line from the engine. Save the banjo bolt and washers. Install the EVO supplied oil line to the engine. Reuse the same banjo bolt and washers.(DO NOT USE THE BANJO BOLT FROM THE FACTORY TURBO!) Make a washer is placed on both sides of the banjo fitting when installing the banjo bolt. Tighten bolt to 10 ft lbs.

The turbo install is made far easier by removing the chassis round spars and steering spar cap. We do not recommend this, but if you choose to do this, make sure you refer to the shop manual for proper reinstallation after the kit is installed.

Modify the factory turbo support bracket with a grinder or belt sander. See picture below.

Install the SC exhaust gasket and up pipe onto the turbo outlet flange. Install the supplied all stud into the top middle threaded hole on the exhaust flange of the turbo. Install the 30mm bolt & washer into the rearward threaded hole and the two 45mm bolts and washers into the front and bottom holes. Use one of the supplied 10mm x 1.25 copper nuts and washer on the stud. Tighten all nuts and bolts.

Install the Evo supplied ¼” steel turbo support bracket onto the 45mm bolts that are sticking through the turbo outlet flange. Using the supplied M10 x 1.25 copper nuts, secure the bracket onto the turbo. Refer to the picture in step 13 for bracket orientation.

With the header removed, rest the turbo/up pipe in the chassis area in the approximate location where it will sit. Test fit the header onto the turbo, tighten header onto the engine. Align the holes of the factory support bracket with the holes of the supplied support bracket by moving the factory bracket up or down on its slotted holes. Also verify clearance between the factory support bracket and the SC outlet flange. Once clearance is verified and holes are aligned, install bridge centering bracket and tighten the most accessible nut of the factory turbo support bracket. Also, check the compressor outlet clocking – make sure there is ample room between the chassis where the lower charge tube connects to the turbo and the chassis. If it is too tight, you can rotate the compressor cover by inserting a wooden dowel into the compressor outlet to rotate it for clearance. If it will not move this way, you can remove the snap ring on the compressor cover and re clock. Remove the header/turbo and tighten the remaining factory turbo support bracket nuts. See picture below.

Use the supplied M8 Black bolts and thick washers for the header to turbo flange.

Through bolt the factory turbo support bracket to the Evo supplied support bracket using the supplied 8mm x 1.25 x 30mm bolts and washers – Reuse the factory nuts and bridge centering bracket. Take up the space between the two brackets by using the supplied stainless steel spacer washers. When all brackets are tightened, they should not induce any torque on the turbo/header/engine. See picture below.

Connect the oil drain line to the factory oil drain line (it is the ½” line that comes up from the bottom of the engine) Reuse the factory constant tension clamp to secure the factory drain line to the supplied drain line.

Install the EVO supplied water banjo all the way into the free end of molded rubber hose installed in step 5. Use a supplied constant tension clamp to secure the hose onto the banjo barb.

Install a supplied copper washer on each side of the banjo and slide a supplied banjo bolt through the washers and banjo into the threaded front water inlet of the SC turbo and tighten to 10 ft lbs. Do not cross thread!

Install the remaining banjo by placing a supplied copper washer on each side of the banjo and slide the supplied banjo bolt through the washers and banjo. Orient the banjo so the barb is facing up and away from the flange of the exhaust header. Insert the banjo bolt into the threaded rear water outlet of the SC turbo and tighten to 10 ft lbs. Do not cross thread! Insert the short end of the remaining water line onto the banjo barb. Slide the water line onto the banjo as far as possible and secure with a supplied constant tension clamp. Slide the fire sleeve so it completely covers the water line and constant tension clamp on the banjo. Refer to the picture in step 9.

Connect the free end of the water line installed in the previous step to the coolant overflow tank. You will need to spray brake cleaner into the end of the hose in order to slide it onto the factory coolant tank barb. Reuse the factory constant tension clamp. Refer to the picture in step 9.

Install the free end of the new oil line onto the oil restrictor fitting on the top of the turbo. Slide the fire sleeve so it completely covers the fitting where it bolts onto the turbo.

Reinstall the vacuum line from the boost control solenoid onto the ¼” barbed turbo outlet port. Reuse the factory constant tension clamp.

Reassemble the heat shields and chassis braces. If using the EVO header/turbo/up pipe blankets, install them now.

Reinstall the intercooler and remaining vacuum lines.

Add 50/50 coolant to the overflow tank until full – leave the cap off of the tank for now.

Loosely Install the hood so it can be moved around for access to the engine coolant bleed screw on the and the coolant fill tank cap and reconnect the wiring enough so the engine can be started.

Do not install the side panels at this time

Install the EVO reflashed ECU.

Raise the front of the sled so the engine bleed screw (See the picture below) is higher than the rear heat exchanger.

Start the engine for 15 seconds and shut off - check for leaks. If no leaks are detected, proceed to next step.

Add more 50/50 coolant to the overflow tank and replace tank cap.

Start the engine. Crack the bleed screw so a small very small amount of antifreeze can be seen coming out. Let the motor idle until you can feel the rear heat exchanger getting hot. Tighten the coolant bleed screw on the engine and shut the motor off. See picture below.

Let the engine completely cool down. Refill the coolant tank to the top.

Start engine again, verify that the rear heat exchanger gets hot after idling for 5-7 minutes.

Install the hood and side panels and all other items removed and/or loosened.

Fuel requirements are crucial. If you have a pump gas kit, good 93 Octane, non-oxygenated pump gas is REQUIRED. If only 91 Octane fuel is available, mix in 2.5 gallons 100LL aviation fuel per tankful. If running a race gas kit, the Octane required is 100. This is standard 100LL aviation fuel.

If you have a Sno Pro with the deluxe gauge, you can monitor coolant temperatures by switching the key on and kill sw off so the display is illuminated. Push in and hold the two left hand buttons for 10 seconds. You will see the voltage appear on the bottom of the screen. Push the upper button until you see a “3” on the bottom left. Just to the right of the “3”, the water temperature will be displayed. Monitor this as you ride. If the snow conditions are decent, it should NEVER exceed 200 deg F. If it does, the cooling system is airlocked. Do NOT ride the snowmobile!!! Re bleed the system. If temperature remains constant and below 195, proceed riding. Check periodically for leaks.

If you do not have a snow pro, periodically check the rear heat exchanger. It should be very warm to the touch. Monitor the gauges for the temperature light to come on. Once you have ridden a few miles with no codes, stop and check for leaks. If no leaks are detected, proceed.

It is assumed that your sled has a Mechanical boost gauge and an AFR gauge. These instruments are necessary for high performance aftermarket modifications. They will also help us to diagnose problems if you have any.