Polaris 2018-2024 Ranger XP 1000 RT-125 Turbo Upgrade System

Wash the vehicle firewall, engine bay and underneath the rear seats. Remove the bed shock, label top/bottom with tape. Cut zip tie holding the box wiring harness, unplug the electrical connector. Some models may have two connectors.

Remove two rear hinge brackets using a 15mm socket and wrench. Remove bed.

Remove rear seat bottoms. The driver side lifts up from the back, pull front out of hinges. Passenger seat will need to remove shock, (2) 13mm screws with bracket, and M6 Allen with 17mm nut with two grommets in between.

On the outside of the firewall, remove the ECU (4) T-25 screws. Reinstall into the plastic once ECU removed. Unplug Relay next to ECU, disconnect the electrical connector mounted to the frame.

Remove the rear window, set in a safe place. Remove the two-firewall endcap hardware (don’t need to fully remove end caps) by removing (2) push parts and (2) T-40 screws located on the inside of the cab.

Remove the rear firewall from the outside. Remove (8) push darts, (8) T-40, and (2) 10mm screws. Some later models have a trim piece across the top, remove that as well.

Pop the end caps around the firewall, tilt the top backwards. Push the AC compressor tube grommet out of the firewall. Some vehicles may have a T-40 Torx instead of a grommet. On the drivers side firewall (located by the ecu) pull the yellow connector upward and remove the plug from the backside. Leave the connector with green seal in the firewall.

Remove (6) T-25 screws holding the backseat pads in. Remove back seats, the tops are clipped in.

Remove (6) push darts holding in the sound dampener carpet. Remove from vehicle.

Loosen the 02 sensor with a 22mm wrench. Unplug the 02 sensor and cut zip ties holding the pigtail onto the harness.

Remove OEM heat shields from header, mainly the heat shields closest to the head.

Spay penetrating oil on the downpipe/muffler flange hardware. Remove the hardware with a 15mm socket, remove the springs. If the bolts are defected, replace them. PN: 7520079.

Remove (6) M6 screws holding the head pipe to the head. Ball-end Allen works best.

Remove the rubber isolator from either chassis or head pipe. Remove head pipe.

Remove the OEM exhaust gasket. Use a razor blade and cleaner. You want this cleaned up well, DON’T let debris fall into the head. Using a vacuum helps.

Remove the crankcase breather tube from the throttle body tube. Keep the self-tightening clamp. Remove the (2) worm drive clamps holding the throttle body tube on, remove tube.

Remove (2) 10mm screws and (1) push dart holding the OEM airbox in place. Pull it into the engine bay and remove the worm drive on the fresh air intake tube.

Clean around the dip stick tube bracket with compressed air and cleaner. Remove the dip stick. Remove (2) 8mm screws holding the dip stick bracket on, remove the tube and clean. Flip the dip stick tube 180 degrees and reinstall hardware and dip stick.

If you aren’t changing oil at this time, skip to step 20. It is recommended. Remove the drain plug with a 6mm Allen. Drain oil into a catch pan. Once finished, reinstall a new sealing washer and reinstall the drain plug.

Clean around the oil filter and housing with compressed air and cleaner. Place rags underneath the housing. Remove (3) 6mm Allen screws holding the oil filter housing to the block. Remove the housing with O-rings, holding the filter downward. You shouldn’t spill oil this way.

With the housing on the work bench, spin off the oil filter and disregard. With a 12mm Allen, remove the oil filter stud from the housing.

Below is a photo of the oil filter adaptor kit.

Install the OEM M20 stud into the oil filter block, tight. The block will have (2) O-rings on the backside mating to the engine block, and (1) larger O-ring on the front around the M20 stud.

Clean the oil filter housing location on the engine block with cleaner. Apply oil to the O-rings and install the oil filter block to the engine. Make sure the O-rings are seated correctly. Reuse OEM hardware.

Install the 4an flare to 1/8” NPT fitting with thread tape on the NPT side, into the billet block until tight. Install the oil feed line with fire sleeve onto the 4an flare fitting. See orientation of the banjo fitting before tightening all the way.

Install the oil filter plate onto the billet block. Wet O-rings with oil, line up the port with O-rings on the plate with the right port on the block, where the oil feed fitting is located.

If you changed oil, fill the oil filter up 3/4 full. Wet the O-ring and install it onto the M20 stud. Tighten down hand tight.

If you changed oil, add the rest of 2.5 quarts to the engine. In front of the CVT housing, you will find a 8mm Allen screw. It is easiest to access this from under the rear seats. Remove the 8mm screw and O-ring.

Replace the screw with the M16 Banjo bolt with fitting and crush washers. Place the barb fitting in the slot in the casting. Use a 22mm socket.

On the rear seat belt bar, remove (4) 13mm screws. Pull bar away from plastic.

With the turbocharger upside down on the work bench, remove the RED cap from the drain. Apply dielectric grease to the barb fitting and install the push lock hose. You may need to apply some force.

Install the supplied 24.1mm pinch clamp on the push lock fitting. Install the fire sleeve over the push lock hose.

On the factory heat shield, cut a 2.0” line, bend both tabs back into the cab part. This will allow more room for the wastegate.

Install the turbocharger onto the head, use supplied gasket and hardware. Guide the oil drain hose towards the fitting but you don’t need to install it yet. Push up on the rear firewall and heat shields so gain access while installing the turbocharger. Torque hardware down to 17 ft-lb. Check wastegate clearance on heat shielding.

Once the turbocharger is installed, fasten down the oil drain tube to the fitting installed on the crank case. Make sure this 16-32 clamp is tight!

Remove the RED cap on the turbocharger oil feed port, install the M12 banjo bolt with sealing washers on both sides. Tighten down with a 14mm socket as shown below.

With the intercooler on the bench, install the smaller “J” tube onto the longer port. Install (2) 50/70mm worm drive clamps onto the hose but don’t tighten down.

Install the intercooler into the vehicle, where the OEM airbox was located. The “J” tube goes in first , underneath the fuel line, back up to the turbocharger.

install the black support bracket reusing (1) OEM airbox screw. Install the supplied torx screw for plastic, using a T-25 socket. It is helpful to use a long extension and go up underneath. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

Tighten the “J” tube worm drives and make sure the intercooler support bracket is tight. Install the (2) supplied intercooler harnesses, one off the fuel pump harness and one to the battery.

Install the fuel pump harness into the fuel pump and the OEM harness. Leave the single connector unplugged for now.

Remove (1) T-40 screw located underneath the seat, mount the relay and reinstall. Install the positive and negative to the battery, use supplied nuts to use open studs on the battery terminals. Connect the intercooler fan connector, and last connect the fuel pump single pigtail to relay single pigtail. Zip tie access wire and coil up.

Remove the (8) M6 screws holding the lid onto the airbox.

Remove the lid, remove the air filter.

Remove (3) T-40 screws underneath the rear driver side seats. You will only be reusing (2) screws.

Install the airbox, reusing (2) OEM screws.

Install the air filter, install the lid and (8) M6 screws.

Remove the (1) push dart holding the fresh airduct in place. With a sharp blade, cut down (10) ribs from the very front. Leave the 10th rib on the piece in the vehicle, this is used for the clamp later on.

Make a mark halfway on the supplied coupler, install it halfway into the air intake duct you just trimmed. Tighten 60/80worm drive.

Install the fresh air intake from the coupler to the airbox. Fasten down with supplied 60/80 worm drives.

Remove both coils from the valve cover, remove (2) T-30 screws on the cvt duct.

Install 5/8” 90-degree barb in intake tube from airbox to turbocharger. Use supplied 30.1mm pinch clamp. Install the tube using (2) 50/70mm worm drive clamps.

Cut back 2.50” off the OEM crank case hose, keep the self-tightening clamp, install onto the 90-degree barb.

Install the charge tube from intercooler to throttle body, using (2) 50/70 worm drives.

If you are NOT running a blow off valve, plug the 1.0” port with bov plug and 25-40mm worm drive.

If you ARE running a blow off valve, install the pre filter around the BOV, secure with a zip tie. Install into the charge tube with 25/40mm worm drive clamp.

Cut (2) zip ties holding the rear harness for throttle body and bed box. Unplug throttle body, rear connector. Lay the harness over the valve cover area.

Remove charge tube from throttle body, push tube below the frame.

Remove (4) T-30 screws mounting the throttle body to the plenum.

Locate the throttle body spacer and O-ring. Make sure the barb fitting is located on top, facing away from the EVP logo. Apply dielectric grease to the O-ring.

Check the plenum O-ring for cracks or tears, replace it if needed. Apply dielectric grease to this O-ring as well.

Install the throttle body and spacer together with supplied (4) screws BEFORE MOUNTING. Fasten down to the plenum, don’t over-tighten.

Route the vacuum line from the BOV to the barb fitting located on the throttle body spacer. Route the line under the intercooler, between the valve cover and CVT duct. Use supplied 13.3mm pinch clamp. Reinstall charge tube and clamp.

Reinstall all connectors and use supplied zip ties to remount the harness.

Unplug the MAP sensor from the harness, replace with MAP sensor with supplied 3 BAR and reuse OEM Torx screw to secure. Use dielectric grease on O-ring.

Spray around injectors with cleaner before removing. Remove the blue safety clip on the fuel rail, pack rags underneath it as it will leak fuel. Unplug both injectors from the harness, cut (3) zip ties on OEM harness located on the white tape. Remove (2) zip tie holders with T-20 socket. Remove (2) fuel rail screws using a T-30.

Remove the fuel rail and injectors, install new injectors and use dielectric on all O-rings.

Reinstall the fuel rail, install supplied injector adaptors onto the injectors. Use dielectric grease. Make sure they seat/clip in all the way.

Reinstall injector connectors, fuel hose with safety clip, MAP sensor connector, zip tie holders and zip ties.

It is recommended to replace your spark plugs, with the coils already removed use a 5/8” socket to remove the OEM NGK-R-MR7F. Replace them with OEM or EVP Brisk plugs, gap to .020”. Reinstall.

Cut the OEM CVT duct back (3) ribs, leave the third rib on the hose. Use a sharp razor blade to cut straight.

Reinstall back on the CVT housing, reinstall the coils.

Installing the turbocharger upper/lower heat shields. Below are photos on the heat shields on the bench. Both heat shield has (3) screws, one on the lower heat shield being close to the wastegate rod. This one is difficult to reach in the car. See below.

Install the lower heat shield first, use (3) supplied button head screws. It may be easier to place a screw on a ball end Allen wrench and get the hole closest to wastegate turn buckle.

Install the turbocharger to downpipe gasket and downpipe, use supplied stainless hardware supplied. Torque to 16 ft-lb.

Install the downpipe, reuse the OEM rubber isolator hanger, install anti-seize on first 02 bung and tighten down with 8mm Allen.

Install supplied exhaust gasket donut, install exhaust screws and springs. If your old screws are trashed, please get new ones. Tighten them in steps until both are bottomed out on the head pipe flange.

Apply anti-sieze to the 02 sensor threads, install it into the second bung on the pipe. Tighten with a 22mm and plug in the connector.

Install the upper heat shield and (3) supplied screws. Push up on the firewall heat shield to gain access.

Wipe down the entire exhaust system with brake cleaner and alcohol. Install the heat blanket and springs onto the head pipe.

Find the rear seat mounting hardware.

Install the billet blocks on the rear seat frame. Place the rear seatbelt mount on top of the billet block, install new hardware and fasten down.

Clean the rear firewall outside. You will be drilling 24mm upwards, center to center on all (7) lower holes. Use a 3/8” drill bit, silver sharpie, and a measuring device.

On the middle (3) holes, you will be cutting out the tops of all three holes, and the outsides of two. As seen in figure 106, here is a close up.

It works best to use a Dremel, sandpaper, round all corners, and use a flame at the end to smooth out the plastic.

Below is the finished cut and drilled firewall.

Reinstall rear carpet/soundproof material and (6) push darts.

Install the rear back pads, clip in the tops and reinstall (6) screws for plastic from the backside.

Fold the OEM heat shield back down to the original 90-degree bend. Slide the bottom of the firewall into place. The (3) holes that were cut out will fit around the turbocharger. Reinstall the yellow connector on the driver side, and re-mount the AC air duct on the passenger side (if equipped).

Install all upper hardware screws & push darts, hardware for end caps, rear window.

Pay attention to the lower hardware. The (3) holes that got cut away, you must lift up the inner firewall to match these (3) holes, and the hardware will screw into the rear seat mounts. So you have to line up both plastic firewalls, using a second person or pry bar. You will be able to get (2-10mm head) screws through the heat shield. The third hole in the heat shield is not used, even from factory. If you need to, you can make new holes on the heat shield.

Now that you have the (3) middle holes installed, the (4) holes on the left and right just need to be drilled out with the 3/8” drill bit. You already have the outer firewall drilled; you just need to drill through those holes into the inner firewall. Be careful not to ruin the threads on the seat belt bar. Install (4) T-40 screws.

Reinstall all relays, push darts, and ecu to the firewall.

Reinstall the lower rear seats. ONLY one tray will be reused, since the airbox is taking up space. You may need to apply some pressure to this bracket and hardware to get started. Reinstall the shock as well.